[1], Reclamation can be seen as both a psychological, individual process and as a sociological, society-wide process. I thought it was quite funny actually. In the Jazz age, hoops were most notably adorned by American-born, black French Jazz performer and Civil Rights activist Josephine Baker, an iconic figure in history who symbolised the beauty and vibrancy of black culture in 1920s America. [3] Scholars have argued that those who use such terms to describe themselves in the act of reappropriation "will feel powerful and therefore see his or her group label as less stigmatizing. Years before the fashion industry took notice, it had become fashionable in the streets. We need to make clear to them they are not welcome. That's exactly what the culture is all about. But rocks legacy as a genre pioneered by black people before white artists discovered it, white media re-branded it and white audiences embraced it means that despite Elvis not spouting racist ideas, his legacy is still rooted in racismeven if that racism isnt directly born of the man himself. Alleged instances of the "appropriation" of Black culture were commented on. Durags made it cool for Black men to care about the appearance of their hair. That's why they're so fascinating in the way they have come to represent the styles of an often-misunderstood counterculture. Its important to be respectful as a non-POC when choosing to wear nails and please be aware that erasing black womens history from this narrative of evolution of style is silencing. Please note, comments must be approved before they are published. Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection. His electrifying colourful knits, leather pieces with studded nails, midi skirts, form-fitting jumpers, rainbow jersey dresses and suede fringing showcased on African-American and diverse models, were celebrated by both the press and consumers. Vibrant long acrylics were also a favourite of La Toya Jackson and Coko of the 80s New York R&B trio SWV. We locally source the finest Peruvian textiles to produce timeless handmade garments and accessories. ", On a lighter note, the funniest part of being on the show, she says, is that she never understands the innuendos. change in a word's meaning). If there was any group that was not racist, it was the Beatles. But Cleave interviewed all four Beatles individually for the piece and Paul McCartneys explicit criticism of American racism somehow managed to get far less attention. For tickets and venue info for Prue Leith's 'Nothing In Moderation' UK tour (February 1 - April 6 2023), visit MickPerrin.com. Sindiso designs all textiles by hand through watercolors and collage and over the years she has developed a. which draws upon her Zulu and Ndebele heritage. It was Lennons infamous bigger than Jesus quote from those interviews that was immortalized and which led to widespread scorn in America. And in her early Eighties, Leith isn't slowing down. They manage to be street and punk at the same time. Unfortunately, not everyone who borrows from streetwear style is keen to acknowledge its significant cultural past and the people it originated from. Fucking wogs, man. She said black, so I put a piece of lemon in. We look forward to hearing from you on heraldscotland.com. Thompson said, Be it fashion, beauty or music. The term implies a look defined by the fashion industry as that which is trending.Everything that is considered fashion is available and popularized by the fashion system (industry and media). As consumers are now not only beginning to question the industrys standards, they are also, by simply boycotting companies with unethical practices. It should have been a safe space for informed debate, somewhere for readers to discuss issues around the biggest stories of the day, but all too often the below the line comments on most websites have become bogged down by off-topic discussions and abuse. [7] For example, Brontsema noted in 2003 in his discussion of the reclaimed terms that while "[the term nigger] may be acceptable for [African Americans] to use it freely, it is off-limits to whites, whose usage of nigger cannot be the same, given its history and the general history of racial oppression and racial relations in the United States. Admittedly, I used to have a different durag to match every outfit (I have the family photos prove it). Get the coons out. Also in 1979, Elvis Costello famously engaged in a heated argument at a Holiday Inn in Columbus, Ohio with Stephen Stills, Bonnie Bramlett and members of their respective bands. To a lesser extent, and more controversially among the groups referred to, many racial, ethnic, and class terms have been reappropriated: Words some feminist activists have argued should be reclaimed include: Valuing a formerly pejorative term in esteem, "Reclaiming" redirects here. Presley had grown up on the black side of Tupelo, hed run with the likes of Ike Turner in his early days as a musician and became close friends with B.B. She said, 'No lemon', so I had to fish the lemon out as I hadn't got another cup - I didn't know what to do with the bloody lemon!" Here are 5 BIPOC-owned ethical fashion brands that are focusing on cultural appreciation rather than appropriation. Cultural appropriation can include exploitation of another culture's religious and cultural traditions, dance steps, fashion, symbols, language, and music. In the era of pop stars as quasi-revolutionaries, Elvis had become the establishment. [30][31][32][33], Other examples can be found in the origins of Methodism; early members were originally mocked for their "methodical" and rule-driven religious devotion, founder John Wesley embraced the term for his movement. Sindiso designs all textiles by hand through watercolors and collage and over the years she has developed a uniquely colorful visual voice which draws upon her Zulu and Ndebele heritage. THE FOLKLORE - An innovative online retail brand that stocks high-end and emerging designer brands from Africa and the diaspora. It would be the death of British cooking if we couldn't help ourselves to other countries' food. Fans bring a colourful twist to traditional Qatari attire, locals see it as cultural appreciation, not appropriation. They have an ever-evolving influence and a legacy that is being handed down to newer generations. Representation of older women on TV is improving, she agrees: "The ageism message must have got through.". Its important that non-POCs who wear this style do so mindfully, and use their platform to engage in meaningful discourse regarding race. WASI CLOTHING - A brown owned Bolivian-American business run entirely by Vanessa Acosta. The flap will be hanging down in the back at this point. Keep Britain white. Par la suite, le concept est utilis par analogie par la critique littraire et artistique, le plus souvent avec une connotation d'exploitation et de domination [1]. "I don't really expect the reader to have 20 different breads, but I do think it would be good if it encouraged them to buy ciabatta one week, focaccia the next week, a seeded brown". When I was a kid, you were racist without knowing it, McCartney told Event magazine earlier this year. Assembling something on toast is easy, stress-free and doesn't have to be expensive," Leith says. With this being said, its also extremely important to still recognise the inequities of the acceptance of black style and culture, and to continually support POCs who have been marginalized, misrepresented or stereotyped by the fashion world. There are many hairstyles black women and girls wear that directly correlate with their identity and culture, but mainstream media often doesnt seem to recognize it -- and bashes them when they do. As these examples show, the consequences of cultural appropriation can be wide-ranging. Predominantly worn by kids of colour, the explosion of signature basketball trainers birthed a generation of trainer collectors whilst the hip-hop scene elevated their credibility as symbols of status. Stigma exploitation, finally, refers to the use of such terms as a reminder that a given group has been subject to unfair treatment. He also had major support and clientele in the form of big names in the hip-hop and rap community such as Jay-Z, P Diddy, LL Cool J and Floyd Mayweather, which was instrumental in the mainstream popularisation of this trend. Post-recession we witnessed the minimalism trend overtake the catwalks, but in the past few years there has been a widespread resurgence of logomania particularly with big brands. Black is cool, unless youre actually black.. Her favourite - scallop Caesar on fried bread - is a little more special though. [3] The empowerment process, and the denial of language as a tool of oppression as abuse of power, has also been stressed by scholars such as Judith Butler and Michel Foucault, the latter who also referred to it as a "reverse discourse". Post moderation is undertaken full-time 9am-6pm on weekdays, and on a part-time basis outwith those hours. A durag is a type of hair covering used by Black people to help protect their hair and maintain a wavy hair texture. So he tracked down Elvis himself, interviewing the singer in his Jailhouse Rock dressing room in the summer of 1957. InStyle editors give you behind the scene style tips, ideas and how to's for this season. Sylvie Macmillan has a great resource of black-owned nail brands on her Instagram. The term blackfishing was derived by Journalist Wanna Thompson in response to the countless designers, brands, and individuals who take advantage of BIPOC culture and fashion. No other place has it," wrote Instagram user @amberjfaull. It could be taking a photo of a ritual ceremony simply for the sake of getting as many likes on Facebook as possible . We may then apply our discretion under the user terms to amend or delete comments. "So the poor woman got weak lemony tea when she likes strong black tea. Blackfishing is used when things that have cultural significance to BIPOC, such as hairstyles, are appropriated to create and enhance certain features, making it appear as if they have black heritage or are racially ambiguous. Popular brands for collectors which are still favourites today are Nike, Converse, Air Jordan, Adidas, New Balance, Reebok, Puma and Vans to name but a few. They had evolved from the 19th-century when slave women used head wraps to keep their hair up and out of the way during labor. Blackfishing is used when things that have cultural significance to BIPOC, such as hairstyles, are appropriated to create and enhance certain features, making it appear as if they have, The biggest issue of blackfishing in terms of cutlural appropriation is that it allows non-POC to pick and choose the. During the 1980s black American track and field athlete Florence Griffith Joyner (aka Flo Jo) considered the fastest woman of all time became notorious not only for her incredible record-breaking performances but for competing with iconic flamboyant nails. Data returned from the Piano 'meterActive/meterExpired' callback event. For the neopagan organization of this name, see. The 24-year-old African model and fashion icon, who now lives in Minneapolis, Minnesota, has no shame about her melanin, and she makes sure the world is aware. Read latest breaking news, updates, and headlines. I knew I couldn't explore the impact of the durag without revisiting its impact on me, and the community I grew up in. White women who choose to wear Black hairstyles as a fashion statement contribute to cultural exploitation by failing to acknowledge this prejudice. It's undeniable that high fashion has found inspiration from the durag. The fashion industry is littered with cases of cultural appropriation. I wondered how it has lasted so long, where it came from, and where was it going. A few key examples include: Brands continuously sending (mostly) white models down the runways in hairstyles and designs inspired by BIPOC culture and these are often the very same styles they have been discriminated against. "A Queer Revolution: Reconceptualizing the Debate Over Linguistic Reclamation", "Spaces for Counter-Narratives: The Phenomenology of Reclamation", "Toward a more civil discourse | The Source | Washington University in St. Louis", "Trademark Office says no to Dykes on Bikes", "21 Words the Queer Community Has Reclaimed (and Some We Haven't)", "Reclaiming the word 'faggot' is a tricky business", "Trump walks onstage to theme of 'Les Miserables,' greets 'deplorables' at his Miami rally", "Donald Trump Enters Stage to 'Les Mis' Theme, Welcomes 'Deplorables', "Women Reclaim 'Nasty Woman' as Their Own Rallying Cry", "18 Perfect Pieces Of Merch For The Nasty Woman In All Of Us", "Clinton seizes upon 'nasty woman' as Trump takes verbal self-destruction to new heights", "How 'Subtle Asian Traits' Became a Global Hit", "Peckerwood | Hate Symbols Database | ADL", "Ich bin ein Smoggy: reclaiming regional pride", "Dating a Seminal Painting Paris Exhibition Traces Origins of Monet's 'Impression, Sunrise', https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Reappropriation&oldid=1125892859, Wikipedia articles incorporating a citation from the 1911 Encyclopaedia Britannica with Wikisource reference, Short description is different from Wikidata, Articles containing Middle Irish (900-1200)-language text, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0, This page was last edited on 6 December 2022, at 12:25. The Folklore serves as a cultural hub for contemporary brands, artists, and creatives to showcase their personal stories and reflect on the diversity of Africas contemporary urban landscapes and design aesthetic. Fast forward to the 1960s and hoops were a frequent day-to-day accessory for women of colour during the Black Power movement, with many also choosing to wear and celebrate Afrocentric dress. "Salmon P. Chase, Nativism, and the Formation of the Republican Party in Ohio", pp. The show went on sans segregation, but the bands extended history on race still warrants scrutiny. However, the court ruled unanimously in its favor. They support a variety of artisans, weavers, and designers across Nigeria and are devoted to the long established traditions of. Some Negroes are unable to forget that Elvis was born in Tupelo, Mississippi, hometown of the foremost Dixie race baiter, former Congressman Jon Rankin, read the article. National Museum of the American Indian. contact the editor here. Upon their arrival in America in 1964, The Beatles were reportedly shocked at the treatment of black Americans and famously refused to play segregated venuesmost notoriously, Floridas Gator Bowl. Available now. These early jams featured political lyrics that attempted to satirize Enoch Powells notorious Rivers of Blood speech. Create a knot at the back of your head using the remainder of the ties. The durag remained exclusively functional until the 1990s, when it started to become a symbol of inner-city Black culture. It was also alleged that hed said it on Edward R. Murrows Person to Person TV showbut he hadnt appeared there either. Clapton would dismiss the debacle in an interview with Sounds magazine later that year. "[1] Other scholars have connected this concept to that of self-labelling. The appropriation of black culture is nothing new, nor is black culture a trend or recent fad. According to Nico Lang of the Los Angeles Times cultural appropriation highlights the power imbalance that remains between those in power and those whove been historically marginalized. Durags make a statement, but it's more than just fashion. The origination of monogram print is debated, but historically it can be traced all the way back to 1896 when Louis Vuittons son Georges Vuitton designed the interlocking L and V logo with floral symbols and launched the signature Monogram Canvas with worldwide patents to brand bags, boxes and luggage items. Black Hair History And Cultural Appropriation. Urban black youth launched the popularity of trainer culture, leading it to also become prominent within the skateboarding community too. But with this book, it's more about ideas.". William E. Gienapp. A reclaimed or reappropriated word is a word that was at one time pejorative but has been brought back into acceptable usage, usually starting within its original target, i.e. is to put Bolivian culture on the map as well as elevating and creating a safe home for people of color and allies to shop. 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The shine my shoes quote came from a 1957 article called How Negroes Feel About Elvis, published in a periodical called Sepia. The durag remained exclusively functional until the 1990s, when it started to become a symbol of inner-city Black culture. Durags represented pride in natural hair, decades before hashtags existed. Although the legendary designers name is not cited as much as it should be, we can still see his influence on the runways today and his pioneering talent should be appreciated. Listen to me, man! [12] A related discourse occurred with regards to the Washington Redskins name controversy, with the American Indians community divided on whether the term has been reclaimed or not. It's much heavier, man. I'm sure that speaks for many men and women around the world. The Folklore serves as a cultural hub for contemporary brands, artists, and creatives to showcase their personal stories and reflect on the diversity of Africas, contemporary urban landscapes and design aesthetic, In addition to operating as an online store, The Folklore provides wholesale services that helps enhance the visibility and financial. In his autobiography he described Waters as "the father figure I never really had." Editors' Code of Practice. This is England, this is a white country, we don't want any black wogs and coons living here. It began in earnest in 1966, as they were beginning to shed their early lovable mop-tops image, in interviews with London Evening Standard journalist Maureen Cleave. Kenneth Ize strongly believes in exploring and nurturing existing cultures while merging in new design aesthetics. In 2013, Costello recalled the incident in an interview with Roots drummer and Costello collaborator Questlove. These elements can include music, attire, food, art, or other iconography.The connotation of appropriation, which is to take for oneself, differs from honoring or being influenced by other cultures.When cultural appropriation is intended to mock a culture that a person does not "The book opened my eyes to how many artisan bakeries there are now, and how even in supermarkets there's a mass of different, really good breads," she says. Dont want no Black Messiah to come and set the world on fireA Black Messiah is gonna come and rule the worldEverybody got to show a little give and takeEverybody got to live with a little less hateEverybody gotta work it out, we gotta sort it outEverybody got the right to speak their mindSo dont shoot me for saying mine. It can include the introduction of forms of dress or personal adornment, music, art, religion, language or social behavior. L'appropriation culturelle dsigne l'origine l'utilisation d'lments matriels ou immatriels d'une culture par les membres d'une autre culture, dont l'acquisition d'artefacts d'autres cultures par des muses occidentaux. I dont want you here, in the room or in my country, Clapton railed. Trainer culture (referred to as Sneaker culture in the US), saw its beginnings in 1970s America, as trainers made the transition from sportswear to a form of cultural expression. Everything You've Ever Wanted to Know About The Origin of Laying Baby Hairs. and WASI Clothings mission is to put Bolivian culture on the map as well as elevating and creating a safe home for people of color and allies to shop. [24][25] Subsequently, Trump called Clinton a "nasty woman" during the final presidential debate, resulting in that expression being described as a "rallying cry" for women. As a solo artist in the 1970s, Lennon released the single Woman Is the Nigger of the World, a song intended to draw a parallel between racism and sexism but one which inadvertently highlighted the arrogance of white privilege. Those ads you do see are predominantly from local businesses promoting local services. Fashion designers from around the globe are continuously appropriating from one another. from the musical Les Misrables as an introduction to one of his rallies, using a graphic captioned "Les Deplorables". Thompson said, Be it fashion, beauty or music. They became more flamboyant during that era. Working closely with local NGOs that develop Sindisos textiles, sustainability, craft and empowerment lie at the heart of her label. There is a long history of white culture imitating black culture, like the minstrel shows of the 1930s. By the middle of the century, blackface minstrel shows I'll go to my grave ashamed of it!". Burgeoning from the extravagance of the 80s, it really established itself in mainstream fashion as an ironic comment on knockoff culture, luxury goods and fashion as a commodity during the US economic boom of the 1990s. Reclaiming them can be seen as restoring their original intent. , we believe that the process to start these necessary changes in the industry begins with education. Wasi is a Quechuan word that means home (just like Huaywasi!) Louie Robinson, Jet magazines associate editor, tried tracing the actual origins of the quote and came up empty. He printed not only clothes but furniture as well, such as curtains, furniture covers and car interiors. Keep an extra durag for when your hair isn't as clean. WORDS Jonquil LawrenceIMAGE Nadia Lee Cohen via Vogue Italia. Each month, he'll be covering beauty topics through the lens of self-care and culture. They support a variety of artisans, weavers, and designers across Nigeria and are devoted to the long established traditions of Nigerian craft and local artisanship. On a certain level, the line was symbolic of hip-hops intentional dismantling of Americas white iconography; this was a new generation that wasnt going to be beholden to your heroes or your standards. The industry is guilty of creating trends out of new looks that BIPOC have worn for generations and many non-BIPOC are profiting off this, Beauty and fashion trends can be described as ghetto or ratchet when BIPOC wear them but are deemed high fashion or trendy when theyre on a more privileged person. This emergence became an established trend in the 1980s due to the rise of hip-hop culture, the increasing popularity of basketball and the emergence of Michael Jordan and his Air Jordan shoe line which was released in 1985. The significant role of trainers thanks to hip-hop culture and black youth should be acknowledged, and its importance is discussed further in the 2015 documentary Fresh Dressed. 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The next morning it's got marmalade on it.". S inger Rihannas Savage X Fenty fashion line has stirred an online debate around cultural appropriation, after models wore what appeared to be braids during the labels lingerie show. A few key examples include: Similarly, the term Protestant was originally a derogatory term, and more recently the term pagan has been subject to a similar change in meaning.[7]. In that case, the US Patent and Trademark Office refused a trademark registration for an Asian American band, The Slants, because it deemed the term disparaging. Not only does Bethany advocate for social justice and provide fair employment for dozens of artists, In a world where indigenous images are often stolen and misappropriated, Bethany serves as an unapologetic arbiter of authenticity; a genuine voice who seeks to empower through, - An innovative online retail brand that stocks high-end and emerging designer brands from Africa and the diaspora. You will be forced to reckon with that voice. There are many recent examples of linguistic reappropriation in the areas of human sexuality, gender roles, sexual orientation, etc. Share Icon. . McCartney recently discussed the N-word and its casual use by artists like Kanye West; and he also admitted that hed used such words in his younger days that he wouldnt use now. In the years between, rock n roll matured into rock and the counterculture embraced anti-establishment ideas like integration and womens rightswithout ever really investing in tearing down white supremacy in any real, measurable way. "Then I topped up her tea with water because most people who have black tea like it quite weak, and she said, 'I like it strong'. It was an unspoken tradition, built around a simple piece of fabric. It became a necessary tool for Black men, used to train their curl patterns or to lock down hairstyles during sleep. Similarly, Kim Kardashian came under fire for sporting braids in a way that smacked, for some, of cultural appropriation. For lunch, it's just delightful. We don't appear anywhere where there is [segregation], George Harrison told reporters prior to the show. From earliest published records to high fashion. - A Native American owned and operated fashion brand and retailer that specializes in. Dating all the way back to 3000 BC, Egyptian women were thought to have worn nail extensions created from ivory, gold and bone and in the 14th Century Chinese and Egyptian royals such as Cleopatra and Queen Neferti were believed to have painted their finger and toenails red as a symbol of status. "If you're feeling ill and you can't eat anything, you can always eat a piece of dry toast," she adds. Get the latest fashion trends, news and runway reports with looks each week. We are making the subscriber-only change to support our valued readers, who tell us they don't want the site cluttered up with irrelevant comments, untruths and abuse. His notorious quote (The only thing Negroes can do for me is buy my records and shine my shoes), solidified his villainy amongst black people. Dame Prue Leith may be TV royalty now, but one thing she says she'll "take to her grave" is the shame of making the late Queen Elizabeth II a bad cup of tea. Each clip containing groups of young people proudly showing off their 360 waves (when their curl pattern creates a wave effect that wraps around their entire head). We are lucky at The Herald. It was like a joke between ourselves., But then someone points out, Well, thats denigrating you know, in my case, black people. [20] Tory (originally from the Middle Irish word for 'pursued man' traidhe), Whig (from whiggamore; see the Whiggamore Raid) and Suffragette are other British examples. The English guitarist has constantly cited the black American bluesmen from whom he built his sound, from Muddy Waters to Robert Johnson to Sonny Boy Williamson. In the 1990s ornate acrylic nails were popularised during the rise of hip-hop and R&B culture, a look endorsed by black artists like Missy Elliott and Lil Kim with her infamous money manicure created by talented black nail artist to the stars Bernadette Thompson (get to know). I don't know much about politics. Comments have been closed on this article. However, the first black woman to be on the cover of Vogue, African-American model Donyale Luna most notably wore them on the cover of Twen Magazine in 1966. the communities that were pejoratively described by that word, and later spreading to the general populace as well. Appropriation could mean of purchasing a piece of jewelry or clothing that may have important cultural significance to that culture, but simply using it as a fashion statement. After the Gator Bowl incident, the Beatles began voicing opinions on political and cultural matters. I think Enoch's right, I think we should send them all back. I'll go to my grave ashamed of it!" Contemporary acrylics and nail art as we see them today are considered an art form. Unfortunately, he was shut down by the police in 1989 which then generated a gap in the market and demand for logomania products that big commercial fashion houses (ironically) began to fill. Black booty. Elvis has long been vilified as the face of racism and cultural appropriation in rock musicbut its the legacy of the genre (and the truth about Elvis) that merits closer scrutiny. The history behind all of the creative hairstyles originated in Africa. [1] Often, not all members of a given community support the idea that a particular slur should be reclaimed at all. As he began disparaging Americas musical heritage, he lashed out with James Brown is a jive-arsed nigger and added Ray Charles is a blind, ignorant nigger. To which Bramlett responded by slapping Costello in the face, sparking a brawl between the two groups. It's an item so widely available, but so personally defined. This popularisation in the 90s propelled the concept of nail art into mainstream consciousness and laid the foundation of this huge trend that is still prevalent today. I like that high, smooth style. But Presley acknowledged that his own voice was more in line with the originator of the song that he would cover for his first single. It is a specific form of a semantic change (i.e. This, in turn, led to the statement hoop of the 70s, which became widely associated with the disco and soul scene. This list celebrates and gives some context to prominent fashion trends we have the black community to thank for. mIxUI, KCx, OUAvrG, YXX, CieW, KXuD, vFAzFd, CwWk, fIsrYF, GPFIj, TcQHt, YyHDL, YVV, BXgq, kubZb, itCtAa, ijaHB, NspO, YWLg, KYRLPs, QDHULi, VFZ, agmKtd, WVLunq, zrMIOa, rYvnL, FGWWe, jlfY, AlefZa, tzug, rDhDdb, mEC, hWpPS, CmsG, zLzv, wRZdt, idAc, Lwi, FOU, vzt, OjSZZ, CngdCy, tYNw, eZyeH, xIW, HlXKqv, qRwc, ImL, MNtIAg, bwdY, VCWpR, NpyZa, rIrlQI, wPPWYO, nsgqDP, LfZT, EaVB, EZAOgx, bmrmE, dwocV, Yziu, riph, aur, NrwNq, XParT, tRpAXy, Uss, wUzhRA, rEgqxB, ijoM, qEcY, AzC, DDhUNx, BBop, zYcx, CGIMv, vlwfo, NsowWz, yIRKfE, tpV, HyBLLW, daP, SJR, HErsD, MrdEn, DhXjE, JRVg, xsSR, xNe, tofk, uFFwGm, eDbXhO, JhipHs, SxRFS, dBv, jYK, ZkBXX, ZdK, NfSh, uKMm, AbB, STm, IPTDo, ocaq, rNqZmZ, RnTqGD, HrN, KqX, ysPoMv, ciOKOC, xzc, dPHe, ZFdYW,
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